Thanks to France’s first lady and former model, Madame Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, and in association with the Foundation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent; the YSL exhibition ( http://www.yslretrospective.com/) is the first retrospective of Yves Saint Laurent’s 44-year long reign in fashion.
The exhibit consists of over 300 haute couture and prêt-à-porter models, with a selection of unique pictures, sketches, and films making this one of the finest the exhibition in fashion history. The exhibition takes you through forty years of wearable art that empowered women with bold, self-confidence and an unapologetic sense of sensual freedom. He was known as the “Prince of Fashion,” but he was the king when it came to haute couture.
The exhibit opened in March, but there is a two-and-a-half hour wait even if you have your ticket. The exhibit will be there until August if you care to jet over to Paris to see it. Whether you’re a lover of fashion, film, or art, or whether you just appreciate the beautiful things in life; Yves Saint Laurent was able to inspire, ignite, and titillate for over 40 years through his unique and masterful fashion creations.
Bruni-Sarkozy, who wore and modeled his creations wrote, “He created an inspired, vivid universe that overturned conventions and conformity. With Saint Laurent, art became fashion — and fashion an art.”
The exhibit begins with his career with Dior in 1958, where in his first year as art director, he was able to make Dior’s iconic “new look” appear old fashioned by contrast with his liberating “Trapeze” collection. A replica of his studio is there with original furniture on loan. It is here you see his love affair with art and the mutually beneficial relationship they shared: He took inspiration from the great masters of art, while giving back masterpieces of his own art to the world.
Mondrian, Picasso, Matisse, Van Gogh, were not his only inspirations. His bold exotic collections inspired by faraway lands turns the exhibit into a section from a museum of the ages. The famous Mondrian shift dress that was featured on the cover of Vogue in 1965 and on the wish lists of girls from Paris to India, stands in the corner of this haute couture room, next to his first African collection (1967) and his “Lalanne” dresses that are abayas with head scarves, embellished with a bust and waist sculpture of galvanized copper (1969) and inspired by his favorite vacation spot, Morocco.
Saint Laurent was able to change fashion and set trends. For Fall-Winter 1965 Saint Laurent created a line of Piet Mondrian and Poliakoff inspired dresses. In an interview regarding his collection, the designer said he was flipping through a book of Mondrian when he predicted 1965 fashion. “I suddenly realized that dresses should no longer be composed of lines, but of colors. I realized that we had to stop conceiving of a garment as sculpture and that, on the contrary, we had to view it as mobile,” said Saint Laurent.
This ability to revolutionize fashion was apparent in his Le Smoking collection. This collection takes the male tuxedo and reinterprets it for the female form. This forever altered the conventions of formal eveningwear by introducing pants into the female wardrobe and blurring the lines of gender. . Saint Laurent often played with the male evening suit and his iconic safari jacket of 1966 that was seductively redesigned from classic safari attire.
One section of the exhibit is devoted to the wardrobe of actress Catherine Deneuve, who wore Yves Saint Laurent religiously, both on and off screen. Deneuve was even the face of his perfume, “Opium”. Luis Bruñel’s provocative film, “Belle de Jour,” (1966) showcased his flair for sophisticated bourgeois fashion with the precise tailoring of his envy-inducing black ciré trench coat.
You will see ornate evening gowns that range all the way to his last collection in 2002 showing his muses of Hollywood glamour (Marylyn Monroe), European sophistication (Duchess of Windsor) and American androgyny (Marlene Dietrich and Lauren Bacall).
All of his creations come alive and the movement is apparent on the still, white mannequins. By the end of the fifteen-room exhibition, you will become enchanted by opulent craftsmanship and innovative foresight of probably one of the most talented designer/artist who has ever lived. From tunics and pea coats, to jumpsuits and tuxedos, he is the man behind every cut or sketch in fashion. Yves Saint-Laurent once famously stated, “I’ve always had the highest of respect for this profession, which isn’t an art form per se, but which needs an artist in order for it to exist.”
Please visit http://www.yslretrospective.com/ to soak up all of the vintage glamour if you can’t jump on the next jet to Paris. It is a trip that you will not want to miss if you love vintage clothing and excellent craftsmanship and innovative vision
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Friday, June 18, 2010
The Vintage Bride
Unlike a good cocktail dress, which is designed to be a workhorse in a woman’s wardrobe, a white or cream-colored wedding dress need only dazzle its audience one time only unless, it's a pre-owned wedding dress, either passed down from a beloved relative or picked up at auction or from a favorite vintage shop.
At the beginning of the 20th century, with the Belle Epoque in full swing, Edwardian brides were synced into tight corsets, which were covered with wedding dresses made out of chiffon, lace, and taffeta. But by World War I, the practice of squeezing women into hourglass shapes was giving way to more natural looks. After the war, wedding dress hemlines had crept far enough off the ground to reveal a bride’s ankle.
Hemlines continued to rise throughout the 1920s, producing wedding dresses that were relatively revealing in the front with a flowing train in the back. Dresses got long again in the ’30s, were generally straight, and for the first time were equipped with a detachable train, which allowed a bride to take her solemn walk down the aisle but then cut a rug on the dance floor after.
The 1940s was a crazy decade when it came to fashion, and wedding dresses were no exception. During the war years, wedding gowns followed the overall trend of boxy, broad shouldered, military silhouettes. By the late ’40s, though, all bets were off as miles of previously rationed fabrics were lavished on wedding dresses and gowns. In some cases, wedding dresses were even made from silk salvaged from surplus parachutes.
Wedding dresses returned to full femininity again in the 1950s, with tight waists and full skirts below. Sleeve styles ranged from full length to almost none at all, while necks could be left open or collared. These varied looks remained consistent into the next decade, except for those adventurous brides who chose to be married in short numbers that ended well above their knees. By the 1970s, some women dispensed with the wedding dress altogether, trading tradition for the sophisticated look of an Yves Saint Laurent white tuxedo-jacket suit.
After the restrained outlines of the previous decade, every bride now wanted a fairytale crinoline and tiara. So 1980s ushered in a jumble of styles, as brides moved on from the decade just past. Gone was the structural support of petticoats, replaced by skirts that fell freely around the feet. After Princess Diana's wedding, every bride had to have full skirts gathered to the waist, and big sleeves to the elbow, with flounces and bows and lace embellishments. There was a surge in popularity for taffeta and silk with detailed hand-stitching, puffy sleeves and shoulder pads playing off the big-haired girlygirl glamour of the day. Shoulders eventually softened, and features such as keyhole backs closed with pearl strands and drop dangles added drama.
Her flowers signaled a return of the big bouquet, with trailing greenery. Then the next royal wedding modified the look to suit a fuller figure, with a low waistline, pointed at front and back, and flare as well as gather in her satin skirts, other brides soon followed her, and set the style that was to prevail for the next few years.
1990s
Moving beyond the ornate ostentation's look of the ‘80s, brides embraced the understated, less-is-more styles of Vera Wang and her ilk. Rich brocade fabrics in intricate, scrolling patterns and applied embroidery and beading,on a fairly stiffly sculpted satin corseted bodice were popular throughout the decade. As the decade progressed, a variety of skirt choices became available. The wide skirt stayed popular, but then a variant which had a very dropped waist, to below the hip, and then flared, was often seen. Gradually, more fluid materials began to appear alongside the stiffly appliqued fabrics, and narrower profiles returned. As the nineties progressed, shift dresses were introduced in day wear fashions, often made by layering a fine fabric over a lining for an ethereal effect, and this trend soon appeared on the bridal scene too.
2001 and beyond
Modern brides said good-bye to tradition and walked down the aisle in wedding gowns that reflect their own particular passion, vision, and personality - from ornate designer dresses to a something informal. As wedding fashion continues to evolve separately from the general vogue, brides have felt freer to allow full rein for their imaginations, and some wedding parties are not so much in "best" dress as fancy dress, as themed and fantasy costumes are the order of the day. Brides have gone black or gold, cocktail or sundress, traditional or even trouser suit. The modern bride wears what they want to look beautiful and feel comfortable on their big day.
The white wedding gown is more tradition than virtue, though even these traditions are blurring with the rise of the global community. With women marrying later and more independent, the 21st century bride is eclectically assuming her own custom look and feel. The color of the wedding gowns are still mostly white, eggshell, ecru and ivory,but colored wedding gowns are making a comeback.
At the beginning of the 20th century, with the Belle Epoque in full swing, Edwardian brides were synced into tight corsets, which were covered with wedding dresses made out of chiffon, lace, and taffeta. But by World War I, the practice of squeezing women into hourglass shapes was giving way to more natural looks. After the war, wedding dress hemlines had crept far enough off the ground to reveal a bride’s ankle.
Hemlines continued to rise throughout the 1920s, producing wedding dresses that were relatively revealing in the front with a flowing train in the back. Dresses got long again in the ’30s, were generally straight, and for the first time were equipped with a detachable train, which allowed a bride to take her solemn walk down the aisle but then cut a rug on the dance floor after.
The 1940s was a crazy decade when it came to fashion, and wedding dresses were no exception. During the war years, wedding gowns followed the overall trend of boxy, broad shouldered, military silhouettes. By the late ’40s, though, all bets were off as miles of previously rationed fabrics were lavished on wedding dresses and gowns. In some cases, wedding dresses were even made from silk salvaged from surplus parachutes.
Wedding dresses returned to full femininity again in the 1950s, with tight waists and full skirts below. Sleeve styles ranged from full length to almost none at all, while necks could be left open or collared. These varied looks remained consistent into the next decade, except for those adventurous brides who chose to be married in short numbers that ended well above their knees. By the 1970s, some women dispensed with the wedding dress altogether, trading tradition for the sophisticated look of an Yves Saint Laurent white tuxedo-jacket suit.
After the restrained outlines of the previous decade, every bride now wanted a fairytale crinoline and tiara. So 1980s ushered in a jumble of styles, as brides moved on from the decade just past. Gone was the structural support of petticoats, replaced by skirts that fell freely around the feet. After Princess Diana's wedding, every bride had to have full skirts gathered to the waist, and big sleeves to the elbow, with flounces and bows and lace embellishments. There was a surge in popularity for taffeta and silk with detailed hand-stitching, puffy sleeves and shoulder pads playing off the big-haired girlygirl glamour of the day. Shoulders eventually softened, and features such as keyhole backs closed with pearl strands and drop dangles added drama.
Her flowers signaled a return of the big bouquet, with trailing greenery. Then the next royal wedding modified the look to suit a fuller figure, with a low waistline, pointed at front and back, and flare as well as gather in her satin skirts, other brides soon followed her, and set the style that was to prevail for the next few years.
1990s
Moving beyond the ornate ostentation's look of the ‘80s, brides embraced the understated, less-is-more styles of Vera Wang and her ilk. Rich brocade fabrics in intricate, scrolling patterns and applied embroidery and beading,on a fairly stiffly sculpted satin corseted bodice were popular throughout the decade. As the decade progressed, a variety of skirt choices became available. The wide skirt stayed popular, but then a variant which had a very dropped waist, to below the hip, and then flared, was often seen. Gradually, more fluid materials began to appear alongside the stiffly appliqued fabrics, and narrower profiles returned. As the nineties progressed, shift dresses were introduced in day wear fashions, often made by layering a fine fabric over a lining for an ethereal effect, and this trend soon appeared on the bridal scene too.
2001 and beyond
Modern brides said good-bye to tradition and walked down the aisle in wedding gowns that reflect their own particular passion, vision, and personality - from ornate designer dresses to a something informal. As wedding fashion continues to evolve separately from the general vogue, brides have felt freer to allow full rein for their imaginations, and some wedding parties are not so much in "best" dress as fancy dress, as themed and fantasy costumes are the order of the day. Brides have gone black or gold, cocktail or sundress, traditional or even trouser suit. The modern bride wears what they want to look beautiful and feel comfortable on their big day.
The white wedding gown is more tradition than virtue, though even these traditions are blurring with the rise of the global community. With women marrying later and more independent, the 21st century bride is eclectically assuming her own custom look and feel. The color of the wedding gowns are still mostly white, eggshell, ecru and ivory,but colored wedding gowns are making a comeback.
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Style, Glamour & Elegance
Whatever happened to style?
Where has glamour gone?
What happened to elegance?
It was not long ago that American women had it all!
They looked like a million bucks.
It was expected and people noticed you.
You turned heads. You had cachet.
It is now the time to do it again.
We need to wear the same designs that put the American woman in the spotlight.
It is time to turn the sidewalks and office aisles into our own personal runway.
The goal is to wear the things that are timeless, functional, and beautiful.
To rediscover what it feels like to walk down the street and have heads turn
And to have eyes follow you’re every movement as you walk
Confidence, pride and style is every woman’s right.
It is time once again to walk in style.
Be the woman that you were met to be.
So shop vintage!
Thursday, March 18, 2010
What is Vintage? What is Couture? What is vintage inspired? What is retro?
The terms - vintage and couture has become diluted over the years especially since the dawn of internet selling and the recent popularity of vintage clothing.
So let’s define what these terms really mean...
Vintage Clothing is clothing that is at least 25 years old. So in the 2010 for clothing to vintage is must have been manufactured before 1985. Anything garment manufactured after 1985 is pre-owned, pre-loved or just plain used. Not all old clothing needs to be sold as vintage.
Couture was once applied only to the haute couture items created under the strict rules of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris. The requirements stated that couture must be made-to-order for a private client and include several fittings.
One of the modern uses of the term couture is when reputable vintage dealers use it as a way to highlight items that have been constructed (usually by hand) with meticulous quality and detail. When buying vintage couture or couture, remember that fashion designers have lines of clothing that are manufactured as ready to wear (RTW). The vintage couture designer RTW is still a valuable garment and something to be proud to own. Most of the vintage couture listed on vintage clothing websites are vintage RTW.
Currently, the label “Vintage” is now being applied to brand new merchandise in many retail stores. Fashion brands are incorporating the word into their names even though their items aren't authentic vintage, just vintage-inspired.
Retro Clothing is the wearing of styles in the past. This way of dressing includes garments and accessories that are characteristic of the past. The garments are generally made new with vintage patterns. Also, retro clothing can be used in an exaggerated way such as rockabilly style or pinup girl style of dressing.
So let’s define what these terms really mean...
Vintage Clothing is clothing that is at least 25 years old. So in the 2010 for clothing to vintage is must have been manufactured before 1985. Anything garment manufactured after 1985 is pre-owned, pre-loved or just plain used. Not all old clothing needs to be sold as vintage.
Couture was once applied only to the haute couture items created under the strict rules of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris. The requirements stated that couture must be made-to-order for a private client and include several fittings.
One of the modern uses of the term couture is when reputable vintage dealers use it as a way to highlight items that have been constructed (usually by hand) with meticulous quality and detail. When buying vintage couture or couture, remember that fashion designers have lines of clothing that are manufactured as ready to wear (RTW). The vintage couture designer RTW is still a valuable garment and something to be proud to own. Most of the vintage couture listed on vintage clothing websites are vintage RTW.
Currently, the label “Vintage” is now being applied to brand new merchandise in many retail stores. Fashion brands are incorporating the word into their names even though their items aren't authentic vintage, just vintage-inspired.
Retro Clothing is the wearing of styles in the past. This way of dressing includes garments and accessories that are characteristic of the past. The garments are generally made new with vintage patterns. Also, retro clothing can be used in an exaggerated way such as rockabilly style or pinup girl style of dressing.
Thursday, March 11, 2010
Spring fashion is beginning to roll in with the spring weather. Designers recently took to the runways to display their visions of trendy for the upcoming months. The prominent theme of Spring 2010: Classic Femininity.
This spring is a return to simple, clean lines and classic shapes. Fashion designers are blending the best of the ‘50s with the boldest of the ‘80s therefore creating some striking silhouettes.
Neutrals are taking center-stage, and the styling looks simple at first glance but the subtle details are going to make all the difference. The Structure is key. White jean shorts are out, but white shorts with a hem or button detail are perfect when topped off with creams, light grays, or beige button-downs and checked patterns floated down the runways with white skirts and simple cardigans.
This spring...girly is the way to go. Even masculine pieces such as military-style jackets are paired with flirty skirts or tailored pants. The ripped jeans and textured tights of last year are out of style. Timeless fashion pieces that your grandmother would have been proud of. If classic is not your preference then try bold prints, intricate fabrics and blazingly bright colors to brighten the most austere outfits.
The new trends have the incredible versatility for bold tops can be made more demure by pairing with a simple skirt; structured jackets are softened by organic inspired shirts and simple jeans. The best news, thanks to a few vintage treasures that you find from a vintage clothing shop or your favorite vintage clothing web site can make your entire spring wardrobe is financially feasible.. Be amazed at how easy it can be to piece together astonishingly cutting-edge outfits that express their individual styles with the members of VFG(Vintage Fashion Guild).
This spring is a return to simple, clean lines and classic shapes. Fashion designers are blending the best of the ‘50s with the boldest of the ‘80s therefore creating some striking silhouettes.
Neutrals are taking center-stage, and the styling looks simple at first glance but the subtle details are going to make all the difference. The Structure is key. White jean shorts are out, but white shorts with a hem or button detail are perfect when topped off with creams, light grays, or beige button-downs and checked patterns floated down the runways with white skirts and simple cardigans.
This spring...girly is the way to go. Even masculine pieces such as military-style jackets are paired with flirty skirts or tailored pants. The ripped jeans and textured tights of last year are out of style. Timeless fashion pieces that your grandmother would have been proud of. If classic is not your preference then try bold prints, intricate fabrics and blazingly bright colors to brighten the most austere outfits.
The new trends have the incredible versatility for bold tops can be made more demure by pairing with a simple skirt; structured jackets are softened by organic inspired shirts and simple jeans. The best news, thanks to a few vintage treasures that you find from a vintage clothing shop or your favorite vintage clothing web site can make your entire spring wardrobe is financially feasible.. Be amazed at how easy it can be to piece together astonishingly cutting-edge outfits that express their individual styles with the members of VFG(Vintage Fashion Guild).
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Collage of Mannequins
I collect mannequins for my vintage clothing display. Yesterday, I was playing around with polyvore and came up with this collage of digiial images about mannequins. Collecting virtual mannequins does really cut down on the need for physical storage space. Unfortunately it does nothing for the visual and tacile experience.But is was fun doing the collage.
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
Take the vintage challenge and do it well!
Those who opt for the vintage style should be ready for the astonished eyes. Many people believe that the use of vintage clothing requires courage but I believe it is only a matter of attitude. You can include vintage items in your everyday wardrobe and add elegance to your daily appearance.
To begin enjoyable and successful, try to make small changes to your wardrobe so you do not look like a time machine. You can wear vintage clothing in a contemporary style. The selection of your look can be the best part and can become your true art. A combination of modern and ancient can be very elegant. There are many vintage clothes and accessories to choose from.
By focusing your image in general, you can adopt a certain style. Know the characteristics of the vintage style that you want to wear. If you do not feel knowledgeable about the style do research. Look at old movies in the era that you favor or visit www.vintagefashion guild.org on the web. Be inspired by fashion icons and those who are already "pro" vintage fashion like Kate Moss and Sandra Bullock. Remember current fashion designers use the vintage designer such as Chanel, Poiret, and Vionnet as inspiration
However, you can combine your personal style with some real chic accessories such as handbags, belts and scarves. Try a pair of jeans or trousers with a bow blouse or dress with a modern vintage leather belt can be a good option. When pairing these items correctly; a colorful dress can be used successfully with a pair of this year's gladiator sandals.
The final step is to find that vintage piece to purchase. This is probably the most exciting process. You can shop your grandmother's attic, a local vintage shop in your area, or with any of the vintage clothing internet dealers that are members of the Vintage Fashion Guild.
Remember these garments know history so use them as pieces of your history. Good luck Vintage Hunter!
Love,
Vintage Diva
To begin enjoyable and successful, try to make small changes to your wardrobe so you do not look like a time machine. You can wear vintage clothing in a contemporary style. The selection of your look can be the best part and can become your true art. A combination of modern and ancient can be very elegant. There are many vintage clothes and accessories to choose from.
By focusing your image in general, you can adopt a certain style. Know the characteristics of the vintage style that you want to wear. If you do not feel knowledgeable about the style do research. Look at old movies in the era that you favor or visit www.vintagefashion guild.org on the web. Be inspired by fashion icons and those who are already "pro" vintage fashion like Kate Moss and Sandra Bullock. Remember current fashion designers use the vintage designer such as Chanel, Poiret, and Vionnet as inspiration
However, you can combine your personal style with some real chic accessories such as handbags, belts and scarves. Try a pair of jeans or trousers with a bow blouse or dress with a modern vintage leather belt can be a good option. When pairing these items correctly; a colorful dress can be used successfully with a pair of this year's gladiator sandals.
The final step is to find that vintage piece to purchase. This is probably the most exciting process. You can shop your grandmother's attic, a local vintage shop in your area, or with any of the vintage clothing internet dealers that are members of the Vintage Fashion Guild.
Remember these garments know history so use them as pieces of your history. Good luck Vintage Hunter!
Love,
Vintage Diva
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